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How To Change Majorette Micro Sonic Flasher Battery

majorette micro sonic flasher tow truck

I got this little Micro Sonic Flasher Tow Truck in a local auction lot and I’ll be damned if I’m going to sell a toy without first getting a proper chance to play with it. I searched out how to get into it and change that batteries but all the instructions were for the full size Sonic Flashers (think hotwheels size vs micro machine, this is the micro machine size). I made sure it wasn’t worth a fortune before committing to the project and they are in fact super cheap…probably because someone nostalgic for one wants the flashing lights and tinny siren sound 🙂

The good news is all you’re going to need for this is:
• A hobby knife would be best/safest but a box cutter worked for me
• Two AG3 sized batteries
• Glue, it depends how rough you plan to play with it and how easy you want it to come apart for future battery replacements, I think 100% silicone might be a good choice here but I used standard Elmer’s School Glue (PVA glue) because it is what I had handy
If you’d like a closer look at any of the images you can click them for the full sized image!

First you need to flip the car over. You can probably already see the area we are going to be attacking based on the nicks from my initial poking and prodding to see where the undercarriage is attached to the body.


It’s surgery time. We want to cut the center part between the two wheels at the seem between the undercarriage and the body. Go slow, take many light passes and be very careful not to cut yourself. Also be wary not to pry outwards on the body, your cutting straight down along the seem. You can test if your through by gently prying the front of rear bumper or gently pulling up on a wheel.


Once that side feels like you’re through do the same on the other side.


You should be able to take the undercarriage off now, if only one side pries up don’t force it go back to the sticking side and keep cutting. You can set both sets of wheels in the undercarriage while you work on the electronics.


Your electronics may pop right out, because I still had some of the black plastic wedging them in I had to push on the LED’s for it to pop out.


Now you can see the batteries we’re going to replace! The red thing on the right is the buzzer for the siren sound, if you are a parent you can put a dab of glue on the top to make it a fair bit quieter…


There is a piece of plastic around the batteries, you should probably leave it alone and put the bottom battery out from the opposite side. I pulled on the plastic and it did work the batteries out but I think it is supposed to separate the batteries from the legs of the LED’s to prevent a short so it was probably not the best plan but it wasn’t difficult to put it back in with the replacement batteries so if you need to, it’s an option. In the picture below you can see the batteries popping out and you’ll also notice on the bottom side of the circuit board below the LED’s the little bump on the metal strip that acts as the switch when you push down on the body.


Here’s the plastic strip and the old batteries. If there is any corrosion in the battery area you want to clean that off with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol or a pencil eraser.

Now you need to take your fresh AG3 batteries and pop them in where the old ones were. As you can see I went for the cheapest batteries I could find.


Once the batteries are installed you can test it out by pushing the metal bar on the bottom up gently in the middle and if your only problem was dead batteries you should see the LED’s flash and hear the piercing tone of the little siren!


Now set the circuit board back in the body and the LED’s should come through where they are supposed to be and then its time to give it some little blogs of glue where we previously did our cutting. Don’t rush it, let it dry completely and then you’re done!



 

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